Friday, June 20, 2014

World Cup 2014: Wearing our Spanish jerseys around Rio


Spain vs Chile, Maracana Stadium, Rio de Janeiro - 18 June 2014, 4pm kick-off

This was a big day for us. We were booked to go to Christ the Redeemer at 10:20am, needed to get somewhere...anywhere to watch the Australia vs Holland game at 1pm, then be at Maracana Stadium by 4pm for the Spain vs Chile game.

This was the day we were going to wear our Spanish jerseys loud and proud...up until this point I hadn't really shown support for any team - except for Brazil in the Brazil vs Mexico game but I figured I would be in good company for that one. 

Little did I know that wearing a jersey - the Spanish one at least - would make us fair game for anyone and everyone.

No sooner than we had left for the walk down our street to the Metro, someone yells out something in Portuguese. We didn't realise he was calling our attention...then he said something again, referring to our jerseys. Hubby gave him a thumbs up and we keep walking...

I walked into a money changer where a Spanish couple recognised our jerseys, they gave us a thumbs up and said something in Spanish. I just smiled and nodded...

Waiting to cross the street at the lights and a few older guys in a car stopped in front of us, gave us the thumbs up and was saying something through the window...we gave him a thumbs up back "Viva Espana!" Then he rolls down his window and continues saying something...Hubby nods to him and motions to his jersey. The car moves on and I turn to Hubby..."What did he say??". He replies "Ambot!" (Translation: I have no idea!)

Finally we get to the Metro. Hubby is buying tickets while I wait on the side. A Chilean stands in front of me with a flag "Chi, Chi, Chi...Le, Le, Le". I just stared at him blankly not realising he was taunting me! When it finally dawned on me I shook my head and said "Viva Espana!" Leche! When he finally got a reaction he smiled gesturing apologetically and said something in Spanish which I took as "I'm only teasing!" then left. All good.

We got to Christ the Redeemer going about our business taking photos...as you do. I hear someone behind me say "Espana, Espana". I turn around and see a reporter with a mic and broadcast camera pointed at me. Aaacck! Panic! "No hablo Espanol" I told him defensively. He backed off. I regained my composure then cheekily offered him a second chance "Ingles?" He shook his head. (Darn it! I blew my chance.) 

Leaving the place, we boarded a bus to get to our next stop... somewhere to watch the Australia vs Netherlands game. The bus driver looks at our jersey as we board "Chile?", he asks. "Espana", I replied. He shakes his head in disgust. Sigh...

We get off the bus and head to the restaurant which we decided we would watch the Australia game from. As we walk we hear a roar on the streets so we stop at a yoghurt bar to check the TV. Netherlands scored its first goal. Cahill scored the goal for Australia immediately after. We cheered. Ladies at the yoghurt bar pointed to our jerseys and gave us the thumbs down. Whatever... we were getting used to it by this stage.

We ate at the restaurant (Catete Grill) and stayed for as long as we could. It was one of those "por kilo" places where they weigh your plate and you pay by weight. It's quite common around here and they're great. We've eaten at a few but this by far was the best for the variety and freshness of the food. It was delicious and I could have kept eating...

The score was 3 - 2 in favour of the Netherlands. There were 15 minutes left but it was time to leave. We needed to make our way to Maracana Stadium for the 4pm Spain vs Chile game. On the train, we found out that Australia lost that game.

We get to our seats a minute before kick-off. The crowd was going wild and we take a look around. We're surrounded by Chileans! Eeeek...not to worry... we cheer for Spain anyway. The Chileans dominated the stands with their collective cheering, singing, booing, and whistling. The Spanish fans had no united reply. There was no chant, no song, no cheer that we could join in. The Spanish fans in the stands seemed just as disorganised as the Spanish players on the field. Spain loses...they're out.

Two losses in the same afternoon dampened our spirits. We no longer have a team to cheer on...

From our stadium seats to the Metro, there seemed to be more Chileans everywhere - singing and chanting. Suddenly there weren't very many Spanish jerseys around. I'm sure some changed sides and put on Chilean jerseys...

On the Metro after the game, Hubby and I got separated in the crowd. He was in one carriage and I in the other. Noisy Chileans filled the carriage...suddenly I was the lone Spanish Jersey surrounded by over 60 boisterous, predominantly male, Chileans singing, chanting, banging the train ceiling. At no time did I feel threatened or unsafe around them but it was certainly the most awkward 40 minute ride.

Finally my stop... time to get off. I spot another Spanish Jersey in the crowd. Hubby! Thank goodness. Now there are 2 of us...strength in numbers...2 amidst hundreds of Chileans. Hubby introduces me to his "Chilean buddy". Of course, that's right. He makes friends so he doesn't get beaten up. He felt just as awkward as I did so we we're relieved to be reunited.

Walking home another guy in a Spanish jersey passing by shakes Hubby's hand with a sorrowful expression...then another random person calls out "Adios Espana" as we pass. We look at him and just give him a thumbs up "Good game", we say admitting defeat.

We pass a bar and a guy calls out at us again... "Adios Espana! Go home! You're out." We look at him and just smile and shrug our shoulders as we pass. Then his lady friend starts calling out in a taunting tone  "Losers! Hahaha! Losers! Go home!" while holding up her fingers in an L to her forehead. I felt the sudden urge to give her the finger but stopped myself as that would've been too 'crassy'. So I just kept walking. Hubby held his hand up to them as if to say "Whatever..." as they clearly wanted to get nasty.

I was so angry. How dare she...she wasn't even Chilean...neither was he! All day we had taken crap but this was below the belt. This was personal. We endured a train ride home surrounded by Chileans and none of them - not one - taunted us that way. These people were down right rude and nasty and deserved an equally nasty reply. How many other Spanish jerseys had they taunted this way? This is one of those moments when I wished I didn't take the high ground.

It's late, we're tired, our spirits dampened...and now I was cranky... so we stop at a bar for a bite to eat and turn our attention to the Croatia vs Cameroon game.

It was a physically and emotionally exhausting day wearing that Spanish jersey around Rio but we wore it 'til the end. We were not out to seek attention nor did we expect it. We are not part of a big rowdy group of fans. We did not wave Spanish flags around or rally in the streets. It was just us - Hubby and I - wearing the jersey to support our team. 

So another lesson learned as a 'non-footballer' (which in hindsight should have been pretty obvious) - no one is exempt from the unwanted attention and taunts that come with wearing the current World Cup Champions' jersey during the World Cup.

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