Morocco - Erg Chebbi Dunes, Sahara Desert

Exactly 2 years ago to this day, on 1 March 2013, we were making our way to one of the many highlights of our European/North African adventure - an overnight stay and camel trek to the dunes of the Sahara Desert in Morocco. This was another non-negotiable on the trip. I wasn't going to Morocco without a trip to the desert.

We left the city of Marrakech behind and had been travelling for 3 days by camel through the Moroccan country side... just kidding (we were in a 4 x 4 Japanese camel - Toyota Prado). From the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains to the numerous kasbahs that littered the country side, to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou - one of the most famous Kasbahs in Morocco.

We had seen a lot by this stage and were slowly falling in love with the country with the help of our driver and guide - Fahid (not his real name). Incidentally, Fahid was originally from Merzouga - where we were headed as the base camp for this desert adventure. He used to be a camel guide at the dunes until he traded his 4-legged camel with the 4 x 4 Japanese version we were now in. He was fluent in Arabic, English, German, and French... which seemed like no big deal for people in this part of the world. Fahid was a character, always polite but with a quiet confidence that told you he was in control. He knew our itinerary and the distances we had to cover so he was sure to keep us on schedule without unnecessarily rushing us. We had hours of driving time with Fahid and because we were keen to know as much as we could about the country and the Moroccan people we had many questions for him. He filled us in on Moroccan culture - stuff you wouldn't necessarily get from travel books - do's and don'ts as a visitor, the anonymity between the locals and the French, his love of country, stories about the many travellers that had ridden his Japanese camel, even his religious views (he appeared to be as Muslim as I am Catholic). I was impressed by his intelligence. Not the academic type of intelligence gained from years of formal schooling but worldly intelligence gained from life experience and interaction with different people and cultures.

Despite all we had seen I couldn't help but feel the best was still yet to come...and I wasn't disappointed.

Finally arrived at Base Camp, Merzouga aboard our 'Japanese camel'.

Bee and Mig excited by all the sand... what else is there to do but make sand angels of course?! Our bivouac accommodation in the background.

Our bivouac accommodation for 2 nights at Base Camp. We originally only planned to stay 1 night but made a last minute change to our itinerary to add the extra night and skip our next destination - a town called Chefchaouen. I don't regret the extra night in the desert as it gave us a better experience and I would recommend 2 nights to anyone who asked but I do regret not being able to visit Chefchaouen - a good reason to return to Morocco.

Mud packed toilet block at Base Camp.

Leaving Base Camp for a camel trek to the Erg Chebbi dunes, Sahara Desert. 

Camel crossing. Our destination Erg Chebbi dunes in the distance.

That's us... except for Hubby who chose to ride the Japanese camel to the dunes.

View from top of the Erg Chebbi dunes out to the Algerian border.

Resting with our camels after the long ride to the dunes.

Mig would slide down the dunes on the snowboard screaming in delight but his little legs couldn't make the climb back up. Our poor guide from Base Camp went beyond the call of duty and trekked up the dunes with Mig on his shoulders... every time. If he wasn't only 3 years old at the time I would have said Mig was taking advantage of the situation.

On top of Erg Chebbi dunes, Sahara Desert, Morocco. The Algerian border in the distance.

Base Camp at Merzouga. Erg Chebbi dunes in the distance.

I mentioned to Fahid that I wanted to learn how to cook Moroccan food so he arranged for us to help in the kitchen. This is cooking couscous the looonnngg way. They laughed at me and didn't believe me when I told them we had a 5-minute version in Australia. This took about an hour. Vegetable tagine which we helped prepare cooking in the background. The cook didn't speak English (and I don't speak French or Arabic) so there was a lot of sign language involved in this cooking lesson. It didn't matter... I'm sticking to my 5-minute version.

Evening bonfire at Base Camp... we were entertained with local songs and bongo drums under the desert stars.

Waiting for the sun to rise at Base Camp...priceless.

Hubby mesmerised by the flame and trying to keep warm at sunrise.

Another day exploring on camel-back.

One of the many wells scattered around the desert that serve as a source of water for the surrounding communities. Our guide must have thought we were crazy getting a thrill from pulling the 'bucket' up and down... me included. I had never seen a working well before, much less one in the middle of the desert.

It was our turn to teach our guide something new... stress relief. He had never heard of the term before. Mig started throwing hardened bits of clay from the ground onto the side of the well and it shattered like a ceramic plate. I instinctively tried to stop him then thought why not... so we all picked up pieces of dried earth and started hurling them at the side of the well watching them shatter. It was quite therapeutic and I told our guide to try it. He really must have thought people from Australia are crazy. 

Sad to be leaving our camels and the friendly staff at Base Camp after 2 nights in the desert but looking forward to a good shower. Next stop... Fez.